Dope Ambition

In the next few weeks, I’ll be breaking trends down as I see them. Some may be insular to one city’s fashion week, while others may pick up momentum as the monthlong fashion shows continue.

I’m excited to announce that, while I admittedly prefer minimal looks with a dash of femininity, Fall 2012 looks promising in the party department. More specifically, party pants are making a debut in alluring sheers, loud prints and new experimental fabrics. Some of my favorite renditions were seen at Peter Som, Rag & Bone and Prabal Gurung. While dresses and skirts seemed to be a theme at this year’s shows, both harking back to a more feminine aesthetic while looking forward with futuristic cuts and fabrics, pants have pushed their way in as well…and thank God.

Don’t get me wrong, I love dresses. I wear dresses and skirts more than I wear pants. However, I don’t know about you, but when I go to parties, I want to be able to sit comfortably, dance without worrying about showing my fun parts, and (perhaps a bit vainly), wear a party garment that every other woman in the room isn’t wearing. With that said, the following pairs of pants were one of few in their respective collections, which reflects how your attitude should be towards an attention-grabbing pair. You can’t wear them everyday; that’s why they’re called “party pants;” save them for loud music, crowded spaces and the like.

Peter Som‘s pair of subtly sparkly pants may be my favorite. The hammertime metallic drop-crotch pants from seasons past need not apply here; these are sophisticated and subdued, only revealing their sparkle to those who will look close enough. Rag and Bone offered a few options for those with a penchant for pattern or metallics, but the sheer paisley-on-acid print, paired with a boldly graphic belted and buttoned-up jacket, are easily transferrable to “real life.” Worn with shorts underneath and a basic white T, they could make a statement without even trying. Even Jason Wu, the purveyor of new school femininity and garments-Mrs-Obama-wears, offered up a pair of loosely-slung printed pants, paired with studded shoes and jet black fur. Prabal Gurung‘s collection, too, had a few loud pairs to offer, cut in a form fitting bell bottom is lustrous fabrics that let the pattern shine…literally. (His collection reminded me a bit too much of Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy Fall 2011 RTW collection, but that’s a story for another day).

All in all, fashion week got off to a feminine start, with lots of dresses and skirts heading the pack. But party pants? They’re going to start hitting shelves late August, so if you’re really cool and have lots of parties to attend come fall, be sure to scoop a pair. If you’re not that cool, perhaps a pair of party pants are a step in the right direction.

Sadface. When I moved to New York in August of 2010, New York Fashion Week was around the corner, and I was antsy. I knew my mailbox wouldn’t be flooded with invitations, having only lived in New York for around three weeks. No one knew my name, no one cared how much I cared about the fashion industry, and how could they? All I had was a little blog and a pretty bleak resume to show for myself. But instead of feeling shut out, like I didn’t make the varsity squad of fashion reporting, I weaseled my way into Lincoln Center with a press pass from my graduate program and a clipboard to seem official. (D0 fashion bloggers and journalists carry clipboards? Probably not. Perhaps it was a bit much). While I didn’t attend any shows, I felt satisfied being in the midst of well-heeled chaos. This was NYFW’s first year at Lincoln Center, and the enclosed space allowed for close up pictures of Anna dello Russo, Hamish Bowles and Grace Coddington, to name a few.

That was then, when I was just beginning my Master’s program at CUNY. Now that I have essentially finished, you’d think I’d be at the shows, at least pestering models backstage or spritzing Anna Wintour’s face with Evian to keep her alive and glowing. But no. Unexpectedly, I have begun a roughly 4-month fellowship program at the Tow Knight Center for Entrepreneurial Journalism. I also just took on a significant and exciting project I can tell you more about soon.

But because I don’t work for a magazine at the moment, and because I’m not the type of fashion “journalist” (read: personal style blogger) who attends shows, takes pictures, and “drools” and “dies” over every item in any given designer’s collection, I have to sit another season out, following fervently from the sidelines (read: the internet).

For those of you attending, whether for work, pleasure or the ideal mixture of both, enjoy it. I’m looking forward to collections from Band of Outsiders, Prabal Gurung, Kenzo, Altuzarra and Celine, to name a few U.S. collections. But I’m really eager to see what London Fashion Week’s newest stars have to offer, especially my favorite, Christopher Kane, as well as Thomas Tait and Simone Rochas. And with such a stellar Spring season, I know Carven is going to kill it, along with Balenciaga, per usual.

Expect lots of ranting and raving on my end, but take it all with a grain of salt, since I will not have seen these collections in person, but rather from behind the screen of my laptop. I’ve got other things to worry about at the moment, so the runway will have to wait until further notice. But I look forward to the day where my presence is asked for, and I am fairly confident (and hopeful) this is not a pipe dream on my part.

Until then…

image via///

The statement necklace, while always exciting, is nothing new. In fact, “costume” jewelry as we know it dates back to the early 20th century, where rhinestones were set in metals like pewter, nickel and brass. Today, however, we’ve stepped up our statement necklace game when it comes to materials, with some necklaces costing upwards of a thousand dollars, boasting  semi-precious stones, Swarovski crystals and even leather, all co-mingling at the napes of our necks.

While the runway often shows draped, multi-strand necklaces dripping off of models’ necks, the pairing is usually a bit predictable; low cut evening gowns and silk tops with generous V necklines are to be expected. After all, these statement necklaces are often used strategically to make a statement about the clavicle or decolletage of a woman, and there’s nothing wrong with that.

But this season, one of my favorite collections was relative newcomer Guillaume Henry’s Carven Spring 2012 show , where the hemlines were flirty, legs were ubiquitous, and cutouts at the chest and midsection gave the buttoned-up looks an extremely youthful appeal the label hadn’t seen in decades. The looks I was drawn to most also featured fun, arts-and-craft necklaces tucked neatly underneath the crisp collars of the buttoned-up tops (below).

But this is just one iteration of the topped off buttoned-up look. Neck deco can be as feminine, flashy or restrained as your tastes dictate; all look equally surprising under a crisp white shirt, slouchy chambray, or even a button up under a sweater, all fastened to the collar, necklace proclaiming itself against your shirt. In this way, no flashes of skin can compete for attention. All eyes are on your necklace, weather beaded, tangled or blingy.

Below are seven of my favorite looks that employ the buttoned up, neck deco look, followed by an ensemble suggestions in case you want the look like, yesterday. (P.S. that denim top is under $30!)

images via///1///2///3///4///5///6///7///

1 - old navy denim pocket shirt

2 - rag & bone cropped mohair sweater 

3 - fiona paxton necklace

4 – asos faux croc clutch

5 - jeffrey campbell wooden oxford wedge 

6 - chuck taylor all star core hi 

7 - karen walker shades

8 - striped pencil skirt

While I was already a fan once I laid eyes upon Raf Simons’ paisley and gingham print pieces for Jil Sander Spring 2012, it was when he sent out modernist-inspired faces neatly splashed across stark white knit sweaters that I think I shed a tear.

I’m exaggerating of course, but sometimes the simplest references, especially paired with something as beautiful as a crisp white, are more startling and lasting than the most outrageous pairings seen during fashion week.

Going on recent history, the most embellished and, dare I say, cute pieces have been the ones to infiltrate magazine editorials most consistently, with Miu Miu and Jason Wu often taking the cake, in that regard. While I am a huge fan of the youthful femininity Miu Miu brings out in all of us, I can’t help but hope that this spotting of a Jil Sander sweater is the beginning of a new, more tailored season of editorials. Even if it’s not, I’m happy to see this piece amid a mother-and-child themed spread for Harper’s Bazaar Australia. And if I’m not getting ahead of myself, I bet Christine Centenera’s cool sensibilities had something to do with paving the way for the presence of Jil Sander in magazines in 2012.

Let’s see more, please.

editorial img via/// fgr

I said it once and I’ll say it again: London Fashion Week is overlooked and underrated, and offers more new talent than any of the other cities can claim. London’s fashion industry seems to foster new, young designers (vs. an all well known-designer lineup) with progressive programs like Fashion East, a non-profit initiative established in 2000 meant to nurture emerging young designers through the early stages of their career with sponsorship funding from Topshop, TOPMAN and The London Development Agency.

And sitting quite comfortably amidst some of London’s most exciting young designers such as Christopher Kane and Thomas Tait, Simone Rocha’s Spring 2012 collection of ethereal, lacy pieces paired with transparent, minimal extras earned her rave reviews and respect from some of the most prestigious magazines. As with some of fashion’s most talented designers, the overall collection was rather conceptual, but basic items could be found within it that erred on the side of practicality. A double-breasted black blazer trimmed in a sheer gauzy material, pleated trousers that hit right at the ankle, and a transparent trench-coat that made everything underneath appear as if wrapped in cellophane could all translate from runway to real life quite seamlessly.

But with Simone Rocha’s spring collection, the fun is all in the details: the femininity of her daintily embroidered collars, lacy sheaths and sheer overlays were grounded by forward-looking plastic accessories and menswear-inspired blazers. Check out the 24-year-old’s (!) stellar Spring 2012 collection. On my wishlist? Practically everything. Of course the seafoam green, asymmetrical peplum dress with lace insets is at the top.

images via simonerocha.com//detail screen shots from zoomed in images on vogue.uk

I’m starting to think Kanye West’s name should have been “Kanye the Creator,” had OFWGKTA’s Tyler not already snagged the title. I wouldn’t be surprised if, in the next year, he came out with a cookbook (we’re going to cook to one song, and one song only), produced a movie, dropped another album, resurrected someone from the dead and/or invented the cure for cancer. There really is no stopping the man.

Well, ladies and gentles, the rumors are true: Mr. West is debuting his fashion label, titled Dw, at Paris Fashion Week on October 1st. People seem confused as to why Ye would take such a career-defining debut to Paris, but why is that a surprise? The man name drops Paris on a very consistent basis, and the city is called “City of Light.” Where else is Kanye expected to shine?

So, what do we think: will the collection be a romantic ode to Paris, an oversexed collection of cleavage and leg, or an architectural, theatrical parade of futuristic garments? Tell me what you think. The world is on its toes, anxious with speculation…precisely how Ye would have it.

I’d like to be patriotic and firmly claim that American designers this season and last absolutely wowed me with their forward-thinking designs and their abilities to rise above seasonal trends. But I’d be lying.

The truth is, some of the most standout designers during the month-long fashion week shows are often found in London, which is precisely where many a snobby, stiff critic refuses to look. As admirers of fashion as an art, we can appreciate other designers like Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons for their abilities to sidestep trends, and set them instead. (Hello: bold stripes, couture-skirts-meet-Tshirts, bananas, etc). But these designers are backed by large companies with even larger stakes in the labels (LVMH and Onward Holdings Company, respectively). There is an expectation to perform, to meet standards, to progress. And while no designer wants to disappoint, designers backed my so much money have specific clients to please, with whom they must maintain relationships. Yes; Prada’s Spring 2012 collection of periwinkle blues, browns and black was a breath of fresh air against a sea of neon hues seen at NYFW.

But then we must remember: that ubiquitous sea of acid hues and highlighter colors we saw saturate the runways for Spring 2012? Christopher Kane did that last year. He set a trend followed a year later by seemingly half of the designers at New York Fashion Week. And it was evident. But reinvention and progression comes with artistic freedom. Unlike some of Kane’s “superiors,” he and his sister Tammy maintain complete ownership of the label. And so, every season, Kane and his sister consistently manage to wow fashion editors and admirers alike with innovate designs that may garner something slowly fading in fashion: awe.

For Fall 2011, Kane  featured extremely wearable dresses complete with plastic straps filled with encapsulated liquid. Clutches of the same variety were tucked under arms and have since shown up on countless wish lists in magazines and fashion blogs.  Jaws dropped, and magazine editors flocked to his frocks for their fall fashion editorials.

This season, Kane approached Spring with a fresh, if not incisive take on florals and pastels. Florals for spring, new? Well, yes…when Christopher Kane’s strategic genius is at work. His dresses were cut in sharp, non-flowing silhouettes, featuring 3-dimensional flowers appearing almost as if they were plucked and pressed between wax paper. The fabric surrounding these sharp florals was a blend of 70 percent aluminum organza; it didn’t move much, and it wasn’t supposed to. The rigidity of his origami-folded, crisp white shirts were tucked into pastel brocades. The look was reminiscent of the expensive couch you were told never to sit on, no matter how tempting, and in this case, the thick brocades were sliced with precision at architectural angles; they were not alluring, but intimidating in a way fashion should be at times. There was nothing soft about Christopher Kane’s florals, nothing nostalgic about his otherwise vintage prints, and paired with stark white athletic sandals, even the collection’s base shunned romanticism.

…And the fashion world fell to its knees. Tim Blanks of Style.com called him a “maverick mind who finds beauty where others don’t even begin to look,” and the perpetually bored Cathy Horyn also sings his praises. Am I done kissing his ass? I guess, for now…until American designers copy his color palette/cuts/silouettes again next season.

There may be other designers whose looks are rack-ready and easily imitated, but I doubt you will see a knockoff of one of Kane’s pieces on a rack at Forever 21. He’s too precise. He knows what he’s doing.

see what I mean?

image credits in order of appearance: christopher kane spring 2011, origami photo, christopher kane fall 2011 , Spring 2012 images

The number of pop culture icons who singlehandedly made particular types of shades infamous are many: Jackie O.’s oversized lenses exuded glamor to the burgeoning celebrity-obsessed culture being born around her, and ironically, many celebs still rock them to hide from the diligent paparazzi. James Dean was every inch the rebellious badass in his ominous wayfarers, and John Lennon made “tea shades” famous, those round, wire-framed shades that bring to mind the pot-smoking, acid-dropping hippies and rock stars of the 60s and 70s. Elton John, too,  has been known to don avant-garde lenses for his live performances, and he recently went as far as covering POP Magazine’s latest issue in some of the most decadent, cake-layer worthy shades I’d seen in a long while. And who could forget the tragic trend Kanye sparked with his shutter shades? Knock-offs of the most unfortunate variety were being sold by street corner vendors and bootleg kingpins everywhere and, therefore, were popping up in everyone’s Friday night club pics.

It was only in the late 20th century that plastics, as opposed to metals and nylons, were invented and became widely available. And hence, since we live in  a plastic, throw-away world, colored frames gained popularity because of the relative ease with which plastics could be dyed and molded. Plastics’ easily transformable qualities was appealing at a time when flash-trends and changing fads were becoming more normal. Plastic is also less expensive to manufacture, but high end luxury designers don’t use this as an excuse to mark down their coveted eyewear; Prada and Chanel plastic frames still go for $300 a pop, plastic or otherwise. So just because it’s plastic doesn’t mean it won’t cost a pretty penny.

For spring, it’s best to forget the wear and tear winter caused, ditch the goth oversized shades and instead, debut a new pair of punchy-hued frames that serve as the perfect pop of color to any neutral-heavy spring ensemble. Jil Sander’s haute couture-meets-clean-contemporary collection offered metallic lenses surrounded by bright frames in all your favorite Bic highlighter shades: hot pink, electric green, orange-on-acid. And Miuccia Prada not only debuted arguably one of Spring’s most inventive collections, what with her dancing monkeys and already-copied pop-art bananas, but the accompanying shades to her collection were a show on their own: swirly periwinkle frames and hot-orange details on over-sized bug-eyed lenses.

But while I’m sure there are wait-lists and backorders for these designer frames, there are a variety of affordable shades for us peons who do not yet own a yacht on which to sport our spunky specs. So, without further ado, I introduce to you a mediocre compiled list of cheap yet chic frames to add a little flavor to your wardrobe of neutrals. And if you’re feeling daring, add a hot pink lip to up the ante. Or not, you know…baby steps.

(below) Jil Sander SS 2011

(below) Prada SS 2011

1. - Asos frosted keyhole sunglasses

2. - Ten over Six for LA Eyeworks mustard yellow shades

3. – A-morir Schubert heart-shaped frames

4. – Forever 21 burnt orange shades (for $1.50!)

5. – Prada SS 2011

6. – Cheap Monday Scrying sunglasses

7. - 80s Purple wayfarer

8. - Cacharel shades for O.C.

9. - Vintage “Look of Love” heart-shaped shades

When I talk about big hair I am not talking about volume of the Snookie variety, although that disastrous trend could garner a feature for other reasons. Rather, I am talking about the reincarnation of va-va-voom; the re-invention of ultra-glamorous hair amidst a sea of otherwise sloppy buns and untamed curls (both of which I also love, but that’s a feature for another day).

Diana Ross stepped into the spotlight with a larger-than-life set of curls that became the envy of women everywhere. Jackie O soon followed suit, with her perfectly-coiffed but always voluminous ‘do that had women everywhere copying her style. Fast forward a few decades, and the trend is back with updates appropriate for 2011.

Marc Jacobs added blown out curls and crimps to his SS 2011 runway show, and Topshop Unique had models waltz down the runway with long strands of fuzzy crimps, and Ports 1961 went old school with large barrel curls that exude glamor and poise. Any style you choose, be weary: you don’t want to look like Snookie with messy crimps, right?

For the most attainable curl, use a volumizer, wrap your hair around velcro rollers, hair spray (I recommend Elnett), and then brush out curls, teasing at the crown depending on your personal “oomph factor.”

Now…do these women from the 50s look happy or what?

THEN

NOW

Marc Jacobs Spring 2011 RTW

Ports 1961 Spring 2011 RTW

Topshop Unique Spring 2011

Zang Toi Spring 2011

vintage photos via vintage-everyday

I AM OBSESSED. I can’t get enough of these slouchy, liquid silhouettes and bold collars. I have been more attracted to longer silhouettes as of late after Givenchy’s sheer maxi trend, but these head-to-toe layers are covetable for an entirely different reason. The leather and suede inserts, whether seen in platform boots or coats or wide-legged slouchy slacks, are perfect for the hard winters in Gotham City. These pieces, worn together, are not made for the faint of heart. I see badasses and villains traipsing around town in these low-slung trousers and trailing trenches.

I just can’t get enough.

images via coutequeqoute